Geeks In Vegas Part 3

This is the final installment.

How I really feel

Silverlight is very impressive and I am thankful to have the opportunity to learn it.

I have been a SharePoint guy for a long time now…since version 1 and while I love the product and all that it can do, my inner designer has been in distress.  I don’t really have any formal art training but have always designed from my gut and learned a lot in the process.  The fact is, I am a very artistic person who has always been looking for an artistic outlet.  I have dabbled in a number of things including 3D modeling, web design, print media and logo design, film and more recently computer modding.  The idea that I can now scratch my art itch while still working for Magenic thru SilverLight is just fantastic. 

Besides being able to do what I love while still being gainfully employed, it also means that I am using the full breadth of my skills and I am not just a 1 trick pony.  I really look forward to learning more and really getting deep into the technology.

MIX 08: Geeks in Vegas Part 2
MIX08: Geeks in Vegas

This is the first of several reports from MIX.  I will update this post even more later but right now I am late for my next session!

Build a steel backsplash

Building a backsplash for my workshop is something that is not only practical but will help me cover the unsightly holes in my walls.  When I started refinishing the shop I took a huge bulletin board off the wall only to find a hole in the drywall behind it.  While it was annoying at least I could see where the studs were.  It looks like the previous owners of the house cut the drywall to run power to a mini-bar in the next room.  At least they had the sense to insulate the walls which is great for me since my shop can get pretty noisy and is situated right next to the family room in my house.

My goal for this project is to create a durable surface behind my bench that is easy to clean and furthers my grungy sci-fi theme.  I selected 3 sheets for 2′x2′ steel tread plate.  I got the thick stuff at .063.  You may be asking, “Stu, why didn’t you go with aluminum?” well there are several answers to that question.  First, the tread patern on the steel is different.  It’s flatter than the aluminum and has more of an industrial feel to it.  It’s also slightly cheaper and the added bonus is that I will be able to stick magnets on it.  This will be a great way to post reminders, drawings, pictures, etc.

To start my grungy finish, I layout all of my pieces in row just as they would be mounted to the wall.  I purchased a nice canvas drop cloth for $25.  It doesn’t stick to my feet like plastic and I will be able to use this forever and pass it on to my kids when I am an old duffer! 

Step 1
As usual, the first coat is a black primer.  Just apply it in nice easy strokes for good coverage.

Step 2
I rubbed down all the panels with iron paint.  This is the type of paint you use with an ageing solution to create a rust finish.  I used the same iron paint on the Blast Cabinet.  I applied the paint with a paper towel rubbing it around.  It’s not supposed to be perfect so just rub it in and forget about it.

Step 3
I need to add a yellow hazard line for visual interest.  I taped off a 10″ section at the bottom of the panels and masked the rest.  This is where lining up all of my panels really saves time.

Step 4
I applied Hazard Yellow paint to my panels in light coats.  It took several coats to get good coverage and then I let it dry.

Step 5
While my paint dried I measured up the studs on my wall.  These plates are heavy so I need to make sure they get screwed right into the studs!  They are supposed to be 16″ on center but measure just to make sure.  If you are not lucky enough to have exposed studs, you can double check your measurements with a stud finder.

Step 6
With my panels dry, I started at the left, right up against the wall and worked my way to the right.  I have mounted the blast cabinet so that my 2′ tall panels will run from the bottom of the cabinet down behind my work surface.  I think this will look nice and uniform.  At this point I have a power outlet to contend with.  I measured the distance from the bottom of the cabinet and from the wall on the left and traced out a square for the outlet.  Using a large drill bit, I put a hole in the corners of the square, this is where I will start my cut with the jig saw.

Step 7
Placing the panel face down on saw horses, I started my cut.  Using a bi-metal blade, even this thick steel cuts like butter.  Starting at one hole I make a horizontal cut and a vertical cut and then repeat the process on the other hole.  Once the steel square has dropped out I clean up the corners behind my starter holes for nice square cut.

IMPORTANT:  Check and double check your measurements and the facing of your panels!  It’s very easy to get confused and measure from the wrong end of your panels.  If you are unsure, remember to return to your panel layout on the floor and check your panel against the others.

Step 8
I am mounting each panel with a series of drywall screws.  I have purchases small counter sunk washer to put around the head of each screw, not because I need them but because I think they look nice.  With the panel still on my saw horses,  I measured out the first 16″ for my first stud.  Using a ruler I put a line down the back of the panel and then marked a dot for 4 mounting screws that will be placed along the line.  I made a note of each mark on my ruler so that I cold space all of my screws the same…after all, I want this to look uniform.  After everything is measured out, drill out your screw holes.  After your first set of holes are done, measure another 16″ from your first line and make another line.  Mark four more dots as the same intervals as your first set and drill them out.  At 16″ on center you should have room for at least two lines of screws per 2′ panel.

Step 9
Mounting these bad boys was a challenge.  I need to hold them up, make sure they are level and screw them in at the same time and these things are not light.  If you are doing this solo like me, make sure that all of your tools are laid out within easy reach.  Next I held the panel up to the wall and push it right up against the wall on the left and the bottom of the blast cabinet on the top.  I used a level to double check that it was straight and run a screw through the top hole.  After running the top screw I checked one more time with the level before zipping in the rest of them.

Step 10
The next 2 panels were easier because I did not have to worry about power outlets.  Simply repeat the process until all the panels are hung.

Step 11
With my panels snuggly mounted to the wall I took more iron paint and smudged it all over the panels.  This time I made sure to get the paint on the yellow hazard line too.  Remember, the goal is to make this look old and weathered so getting the yellow paint dirty is essential.

Step 12
With my iron paint applied, I filled a spray bottle with aging solution and coated the panels liberally.  I applied the solution and let it run down the panels.  I used an eye dropper to apply aging solution directly to each screw and let the liquid run down the panel.  The change will not happen right away and you may need to reapply again.  I applied solution to each screw 4 times before I was finished.

There you have it, a grungy steel backsplash that is fun to build, looks really cool and protects my wall from flying paint and polish.

Vault 5: Shop build video 4

The lights are on, now it’s time to get the cabinet up on the wall…

Vault 5: Shop build video 3

Slug buster…cutting a hole to mount custom light fixtures for my work space.  Modified explosion-proof lighting found at the salvage yard.

Vault 5: Shop build video 2

More updates!  I am working out my cabinet modifications and lighting issues.  A full review of my heinous storage issues.

Vault 5: Shop build video 1

The shop is in pretty good shape now and I did it all in a one day modding blitz.  See it as it happened…

Final Vector: export to .psd

BadIdeaz

Here is the final version of my vector illustration.  After putting it all together in Expression Design I exported the file to PhotoShop as a .psd.  When you export to PhotoShop all of your layers in expressions will be saved as individual layers in PhotoShop.  For example, the highlights on the wrenches are on a different layer and I was able to switch them on and off as if I had created the file in PhotoShop to begin with.

I am not sure what I will end up doing with this but I like it!

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